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|
Date |
Summary |
Tip |
Posted
By: |
| 02/24/04 |
Plumbing
Oil Lines On A Fluidyne Cooler |
Plumbing
your oil lines using this method should boost your oil pressure by
as much as 50%. Click HERE
for picture. |
kev@kevscorner.com |
| 04/20/02 |
Carb
& Throttle Notes |
With
the recent concerns about throttle sticking, this page has good info
on how you can reduce and hopefully eliminate stuck throttles.
Click HERE for more info! |
kev@kevscorner.com |
| 12/04/01 |
Shock
Adjuster Affixing |
With
regard to shock adjusters, most people opt to keep the adjusters in
place by taping up the adjuster to stop the adjuster from moving in
use! After some dodgy taping of my shock's I came up with
using a jubilee clip (hose clips) to do the same job as the tape.
they are easy to fit and very easy to use and are far quicker than
tape between races.
Fitting of hose
clip - remove threaded end of shock for the chassis /axle and slip
the hose clip (of the correct size) over the threads until it sits
below the adjuster and then just tighten it up with a screwdriver,
you will find that the worm-drive part of the hose clip will be
the only part that sits against the adjuster. still works like this
When it's time
for adjustments to your set up all you need is a screwdriver, just
slacken the hose clip and let it fall (can only go to the bolt that's
holding the shock onto the car) then adjust the shock up or down
as desired and then when your finished lift up the hose-clip until
it sits against the adjuster as above and tighten it up. (no more
sticky fingers or looking for tape).
This process
makes adjustment far easier and quicker. In the time the author
of this tip has been using the hose clips, he has not had one came
slack on the car. Most of the other drivers in his area are
now using the same type of jubilee clips (hose-clips)on their cars
as well. |
Gary
Crawford
Scottish Legends Championship Competitor |
| 08/11/01 |
Shock
Breakdown |
With
the changeover to Bilstein shock absorbers, several new parameters
were added to the mix. In addition to adjusting the setup and
spring package of the car, a new checklist item was added to our weekly
"nutting and bolting" routine. The
Bilstein shocks have a top which screws onto the shaft and is held
in place by a lock nut. It was my original understanding that
these tops would never come off by themselves, but are built such
that they can be replaced or removed in order to install different
types of coilover adapter kits.
This understanding
is incorrect! In a recent race, the shaft rotated out of the
shock head. This left the shock head only connected to the
upper mount point, and the body of the shock to hang uselessly from
the chassis. As no damage was done to the car or the shock,
we were able to simply screw the shock head back onto the shaft,
locking it in place with red Locktite. After summarily checking
the remainder of the shocks on our cars, we found at least one more
shock shaft which had begun to rotate.
As a precautionary
measure, check the tightness of your shock heads every week, along
with your regular nutting and bolting of the car. Along
with keeping your setup consistent, it could save your car someday.
[Pictures
to follow] |
kev@kevscorner.com |
| 8/13/01 |
Shock
Mounting |
Mounting
rear shocks upside down will not alter the performance of the shock.
It will, however, allow you to make changes to your car's setup without
having to crawl under the car. You will simply jack the car
up in the rear, and make your adjustment. Remember to tape your
shocks coilover in place after and update so the setup does not change. |
kev@kevscorner.com |
| 8/13/01 |
Engine
Popping |
After
trying new coils, ignitor box, pickup coil, spark plugs, carb rebuilds,
etc. we finally tracked it down to failing alternator. Apparently
diode was failing, causing internal short, dropping system voltage
to low levels which hurt coil saturation and caused the popping missing.
Because the diode breakdown was intermittent, miss was intermittent.
Easy way to check if this is your probl. If no miss, then
you are second racer having been plaem is to disconnect alternator
and run car on the trackgued by this weird failure. |
Mike
Patrick |
| 8/23/01 |
Engine
Popping |
Motor
was popping at low rpm coming off the turn. After trying
everything in the above post, we took the carbs off and cleaned them
and replaced the fuel filter. |
kev@kevscorner.com |
| 8/23/01 |
Steps
To Installing Red Box |
- Remove existing
rotor button and install black rotor button using hex-head bolt.
Install blue pickup coil using smaller hex bolts and spacers (spacers
go on the inside and attach pickup coil to block.
- Line the "35
degree" mark on the blue pickup with the split in the engine
case.
- Hook the pickup
coil to the red box, but don't hook the other parts of the red
box up. All that should be hooked up to the box is the ignition
wire and ground, and the wiring harness that goes from the box
to the pickup coil.
- Flip your
ignition switch on - you will see the red diode on the box go
on and off. Move the rotor button around (bump the starter)
until the "1-4" is at the 2 o'clock position.
Rotate the crank by hand ( a number of ways to do this, I use
a big screwdriver thougth the universal on the driveshaft) until
the "1-4" mark lines up with the vertical mark on the
pickup coil (the mark I mentioned earlier to line up with the
split in the cases) - the red diode on the box should light up
when these two marks are aligned. If the
light doesn't come on, adjust the pickup and try it again.
- Once this
is complete, rotate the engine until the "2-3" mark
is in the in the 2 o'clock position and then repeat the previous
instructions.
- Once both
marks are aligned, the coil is set properly and you can go about
permanently affixing the red box. Set the timing by moving
the degree marks on the side of the coil to line up with the horizontal
split in the case. Set the coil to 38 degrees, as this is what
Hank Scott told me.
Good luck. I think you will be pleased with the box unless
you run XJ coils. If you do, get some FJ coils or
the new dyna coils.
|
kev@kevscorner.com |
| 8/23/01 |
Is
It Loose or Tight |
It's
not such a dumb question. Have you ever had a day when the car
was loose, and no matter how much you tightened it, it was still kicking
loose of the corner? This is called "pushing loose".
The car is actually so tight in and through the middle of the turn,
that when the front end bites, the rear kicks around and appears loose.
Any time you tighten a car and go out to find it still as loose, or
sometimes even MORE loose, come in and return car to previous settings,
and then try taking 1/4 or maybe 1/2 turn of wedge out of the LR.
As you are now mounting your shocks inverted, this won't take but
a second. |
kev@kevscorner.com |
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